Review: The Ivens is a Chic Boutique Hotel in Lisbon, Portugal

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The Ivens – Introduction

The Ivens, an Autograph Collection Hotel, is centrally located in the elegant Chiado district in Lisbon, Portugal. This boutique property used to be the first luxury warehouse in the capital, then it was turned into a public radio station. Housed in a 19^th century building, it was then re-purposed into a hotel in 2021 opening its doors as The Ivens.

Located at the intersection of two streets named after Portuguese explorers Roberto Ivens and Hermenegildo Capelo, this hotel draws inspiration from these historical figures. The hotel’s name, interior design and playful reference to its guests as “Explorers” reflect this theme.

The Ivens is in a stellar location. Despite being situated on a quiet street, it is just steps away from theatres, museums and a variety of shops, ranging from antique stores to international brands and souvenir shops. For foodies, you’ll find plenty of dining options. This includes two Michelin-starred restaurants: Alma and Belcanto.

For book lovers, one block away is where you’ll find the world’s oldest bookshop, Bertrand. The hotel is also conveniently close to many tourist sites and landmarks, such as Santa Justa Lift, Castle Sao Jorge, Lisbon Cathedral and my favourite spot, Praça do Comercio.

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 The Ivens – Booking

I booked the Capelo King room many months in advance for travel in the shoulder season. The standard cash rate was over 550€ per night. Since I planned a stay for five nights, it was better value to redeem my Marriott Bonvoy points to take advantage of the fifth night free. The redemption cost 292,000 points and 20€ to cover Government taxes and fees for the 5-night stay.

The Ivens – Arrival and Check-in

 Prior to our arrival, the hotel’s Explorers Team reached out via e-mail with a questionnaire. They wanted to ensure that we experience a “memorable expedition” during our stay at the Ivens. The questionnaire asked for our estimated arrival time and whether we’re celebrating a special occasion, among other details.

They offered private airport transportation with the following rates:

• Mercedes sedan – 60€ one-way (78€ for pickups between 22:30 to 7:00)
• Mercedes van – 80€ one-way (104€ for the night rate)

These rates included a one-hour wait at the airport, with additional wait time costing €40 per hour for the sedan and €50 per hour for the van. So, it will add up to a really expensive ride if your flight is delayed!

Instead, we opted for a rideshare app and arrived at the hotel for a fraction of the price. After navigating the uphill streets, we arrived at Capelo Street. Friendly porters promptly assisted us with our luggage.

Entering the lobby was stepping into a cozy living room. A fireplace with beautiful decorative Portuguese ceramic tiles faced the entrance, surrounded by floral-printed accent chairs and leather armchairs. A stylish chandelier illuminated the space, adding to its warm ambiance.

Additional seating flanked the entrance, with a bookcase on the left and wall art on the right. The concierge desk was located on this floor, while two large doors at the other end led to the hotel’s gastropub and on-site restaurant, Rocco.

We were escorted to the elevator, headed to the next floor, and arrived at the reception desk for our check-in. The front desk associate was professional and courteous. Without any Nightly Upgrade Awards at my disposal, all I could hope for was a room upgrade based on the elite benefits of holding Titanium status. Sure enough, our associate let us know that we’ve been upgraded. Although it wasn’t much to get excited about. The “upgrade” was our room had a balcony.

The Ivens – Balcony King Room

With room keys in hand, we stepped out of the elevator to head to our appointed room, 204. We didn’t have to walk very far, as our room was right by the elevator. It’s worth noting that the hotel has only two elevators—one accommodating up to four people and the other fitting just two.

The room was well-appointed but rather tight on space. The balcony was tiny, and the small closet couldn’t fit all my outfits for our five-night stay. The pre-arrival questionnaire had asked if we needed a cot or an extra bed, but I couldn’t see how either would fit in this room. I can only assume that guests needing an extra bed are upgraded to a premium room with more space.

I found that the wall art was uninspiring and the room was pretty low-tech. There were no electronic switches to control the blackout curtains and not a single USB outlet was in sight – a surprise given this upscale hotel opened only a few years ago.

I also don’t understand this creepy trend where they design a bathroom to have an opening or a window into the bedroom so that you can watch the person in the shower. At least they included blinds to provide some measure of privacy.

What I liked about the room was that the bed had just the right amount of firmness. I also loved the quality bedding with the Ivens name brand on the pillowcases. Complimentary drinks in the fridge, in addition to the coffee and tea, were a nice touch.

They provided us with recyclable slippers, which was neat. Turndown service was included. Some nights, they would leave us with a treat or a small gift along with a “Tip of the Day” card about suggested experiences we can partake in, such as hiring a Tuk Tuk to get a tour of the old town.

I found that the bathroom was stocked with all the necessary toiletries, with Aqua di Parma bath amenities. The shower had great water pressure. The only thing missing was a bidet.

The Ivens – Breakfast and Dining

Rocco

Breakfast is served at the Italian restaurant, Rocco. It consisted of a buffet spread, along with a small menu of à la carte options. These included eggs cooked to order, pancakes, French toast, smoked salmon and a few other choices.

On the first morning, I tried the avocado toast. While nicely presented, it was disappointingly just a thin layer of guacamole spread. On another day, I tried the omelette, which was too runny for my taste. However, the oatmeal with fruits and hazelnuts became my go-to breakfast option.

The breakfast buffet featured essentials, such as cheese, cold cuts, fruits, jam, bread and baked goods. Yet, I found the selection somewhat limited. By day five, I was ready to try breakfast elsewhere.

Our breakfast was complimentary thanks to my status, but for those without Platinum status or higher, it costs 38€ per person. I definitely don’t think it’s worth this exuberant price. The Service was inconsistent. Some days we had attentive waiters, while on others, we struggled to get a coffee refill.

The highlight of our breakfast experience came on the last day when we requested to be seated in the indoor garden section of the restaurant. It was lovely, and our only regret was not asking for it earlier. This section seemed to be less populated, and seating there appeared to be by request only.

Gastro Bar

After our flight without meal service, we arrived in Lisbon hungry. After checking in and settling into our room, we decided to eat at the hotel. Initially, we planned to dine at Rocco, but we decided to have our lunch at their Gastro Bar instead because it was gorgeous!

Although I haven’t frequented many bars, this one was the most aesthetically pleasing I’ve ever seen. The bar is oval-shaped, surrounded by red and floral-printed bar stools. We started with a burrata cheese appetizer, followed by steak for our mains. Both dishes were delicious. While the meal was quite pricey, I found it worth the cost.

Note that you won’t earn Bonvoy points for dining here, even if you charge it to your room. The Gastro Bar is managed by a third-party company.

The Ivens – Facilities

Besides Rocco and the Gastro Bar, the hotel also features Crudo Bar, which serves seafood dishes. For a boutique hotel, there are more eats and drinks options here than I expected.

If walking uphill in this hilly city isn’t enough of a workout, the Ivens does have a fully-equipped, compact gym.

One interesting discovery I made after my stay was the uniquely designed bathroom located in the basement. It’s no ordinary bathroom, so be sure to make a stop to check it out if you stay here.

Takeaway

The Ivens is full of character and situated in a prime location with friendly and hospitable service. The public areas are beautifully designed, and the on-site Gastro Bar is a must-visit. It’s arguably the best points hotel option in Lisbon.

However, the small rooms are a significant drawback. We found the space too cramped, having to live out of our suitcases because the closet was too small. If you plan to stay at The Ivens, consider booking a suite or at least a premium room if you can for a more comfortable experience.