This Luxury Trip to Iguazu Falls Shouldn’t Have Worked

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A last-minute opening in my schedule unexpectedly turned into one of the most memorable trips I’ve taken in years. What started as a simple plan to finally visit Iguazu Falls quickly evolved into a complicated yet rewarding itinerary that included AA Flagship First Class, tight-positioning flights, and airport transfers, as well as luxury stays at both the Belmond Hotel das Cataratas in Brazil and the Gran Meliá Iguazú in Argentina. Over a few days, I experienced both sides of Iguazu Falls, navigated domestic flights within Argentina, and stitched together a trip that probably shouldn’t have worked as smoothly as it did.

This is a long trip report, so buckle up!

Finally Visiting Iguazu Falls

I’ve travelled to South America several times, including to both Argentina and Brazil, yet somehow I had never made it to Iguazu Falls. It’s a destination that had quietly sat on my bucket list since I was a kid. I had seen the photos countless times growing up: endless waterfalls stretching across the jungle, mist rising into the air, walkways disappearing into the spray. Every time I visited the continent, I told myself I would eventually make the detour. Somehow, I never did, until now.

Then a small gap unexpectedly opened up in my schedule. A few free days. No family activities planned. No major commitments. Within hours, I found myself piecing together what quickly became one of the more complicated itineraries I had booked in a while. On paper, this sounded simple enough: fly to Buenos Aires, connect to Iguazu Falls, stay at a couple of nice hotels, and come home. In reality, it involved separate tickets, airport changes across Buenos Aires, positioning flights, backup contingencies, border crossings, and enough moving parts that I probably spent almost as much time planning the logistics as I did actually standing in front of the falls. And yet, somehow, it all worked.

Booking the Trip – Flights & Hotels

Let’s begin with the flight routing, along with the product, cost, and how it was paid for:

The noteworthy flight booking for this trip was American Airlines Flagship First, round-trip between New York JFK and Buenos Aires. While these flights were initially booked about a month before departure using 93,000 AAdvantage miles, award availability through Qatar Privilege Club opened up even closer to departure, allowing me to rebook the flights for just 103,000 Qatar Avios, one-way, instead. I quickly jumped at the opportunity to save my precious AAdvantage miles and instead use Avios accumulated through RBC’s sporadic 30% Avion-to-Avios transfer promotions, along with a previous 1.25:1 US American Express Membership Rewards transfer bonus to Avios. To make the itinerary work, I separately positioned from Ottawa to Newark before transferring to JFK by Uber, and later returned home on separate tickets from JFK through Montreal back to Ottawa. In Argentina, I flew Aerolíneas Argentinas from Buenos Aires to Iguazu Falls, then returned on JetSMART, primarily choosing these domestic flights for schedule flexibility and cost.

I had decided to see the falls on both the Argentine and Brazilian sides, which meant I’d ideally want to stay at the two hotels inside the national parks, Belmond’s luxury Hotel das Cataratas on the Brazilian side and Melia’s Gran Melia Iguaçu on the Argentine side. These hotels were booked through Chase’s luxury travel program Edit and American Express’ Fine Hotel and Resorts.

The Belmond property is a historic 1950s property in a Portuguese colonial/hacienda-style architectural style, blended with mid-century Brazilian influences. It was intentionally designed to blend into the surrounding jungle landscape and is the only hotel inside the national park, which provides access to the falls before and after the park opens to the public, a crucial feature for avoiding crowds. However, this hotel wasn’t cheap, with average prices in the USD $700-$1200 a night. I ended up paying $1018 for the night, but was able to redeem my Chase Ultimate Rewards (UR) at 2 cents per point (cpp).

In addition, the Edit program would provide me with the following benefits;

The Gran Melia Iguazu hotel is part of Melia Hotels International, which operates brands from mid-scale to luxury, with Gran Melia being their top luxury brand. This particular hotel inside the Iguazu National Park on the Argentine side was previously a Sheraton. I stayed 2 nights on separate FHR bookings at USD $685/night, with a $300/night FHR credit using 2 separate US Amex Platinum cards. With a net cost of $385/night, it also included the following FHR benefits:

 

The Outbound Journey

With only five days available for the entire trip, maximizing time became critical. Flights, airport transfers, and hotel stays all had to be carefully stitched together while still building in contingencies for delays or cancellations. There are two airports that can be used to access Iguazu Falls: Puerto Iguazú (IGR) on the Argentina side and Foz do Iguaçu (IGU) on the Brazil side. My original plan involved flying into Buenos Aires on AA Flagship First, then continuing to Rio de Janeiro on Emirates First Class, and then connecting to IGU to begin my stay at Hotel das Cataras. However, adding Rio and Emirates First was making the itinerary far more complicated than necessary, so I ultimately simplified the routing and flew directly from Buenos Aires to IGR instead, followed by a land border crossing into Brazil to reach Hotel das Cataras. This still required a same-day airport transfer from EZE to AEP after arriving in Buenos Aires. The outbound journey ultimately looked like this:

Ottawa –> EWR –> Transfer to JFK  –> EZE –> Transfer to AEP –> IGR –> Land crossing into Brazil –> Belmond Hotel

The journey would be exactly 27 hours.

The Newark transfer went smoothly with no delay. With only 5 hours between flights and a transfer from JFK, which can take 1-2 hours by Uber, traffic was light but construction and a slow Uber caused longer travel time.

The Chelsea Lounge

Once at JFK, I was impressed to find a dedicated private check-in area for American Airlines First Class passengers, but the real highlight was the Chelsea Lounge, an exclusive first class lounge reserved for passengers flying AA First and British Airways First.

The only negative aspect of the lounge was the food, which was sadly mediocre, along with the cocktails

They also had a champagne menu, with the Bollinger La Grande Année 2015 on rotation that day. This made me happy

American Airlines Flagship First

I went into this flight with very low expectations for American Airlines Flagship First given the overwhelmingly negative reviews I had read online, but after finally trying it myself, I’d summarize the experience as follows:

• The single biggest positive of the experience was the seat itself. The bed was exceptionally comfortable, and I ended up getting one of the best sleeps I’ve ever had on a plane.
• However, the mattress topper was forgotten to be loaded on my return flight from Buenos Aires, and so the crew used a blanket as a mattress topper
• On five separate occasions on the two flights, I pressed the call button, but no one came. Eventually, I simply walked to the galley myself.
• The sundae dessert arrived partially melted and soupy, apparently because there wasn’t enough dry ice loaded to keep the ice cream properly frozen.
• Champagne service lacked any sense of occasion. The bottle was never presented, pours were only about a quarter of a glass at a time, and it wasn’t even served in a proper champagne flute.
• Food from JFK was decent, but meals from Buenos Aires were subpar and largely inedible
• Food is served on a tray, in first class, similar to how prisoners are served in jail.
• Pyjamas were never proactively offered and had to be requested, albeit very comfortable
• I also had to ask for my jacket to be hung after boarding and later remind the crew to return it before landing.
• And of course, there’s the infamous mesh curtain separating Business and First Class, which hardly contributes to a premium or exclusive atmosphere.

To be fair, the crew themselves were friendly throughout the flight, and I have nothing negative to say about them personally. More than anything, the experience felt reflective of American Airlines’ overall First Class service culture rather than individual crew performance. Would I fly this again? To South America, 100%, as there is no better option. Anywhere else, unlikely.

A unique aspect of the seat is that it can swivel to face the window, creating a desk of sorts to get work done. Unfortunately, given both my flights were red-eyes, I was unable to test this out.

 

Once I landed at EZE, the logistics resumed, and I took an Uber to the city’s domestic airport, Aeroparque Jorge Newberry (AEP). This transfer is often underestimated by many travellers. Traffic in Buenos Aires can be unpredictable, and because this was yet another separate ticket, I once again built in significant buffer time and luckily caught no traffic and just took an hour.

Aerolíneas Argentinas

From AEP, I flew Aerolíneas Argentinas to IGR. I managed to secure a bulkhead seat, which turned out to be a surprisingly nice domestic flight experience.

The Land Crossing to Brazil

From IGR, I hired a private driver to cross the border into Brazil and take me directly to the Belmond Hotel das Cataratas. The border crossing itself was surprisingly painless, and before long, we were winding through the national park toward the only hotel located directly inside the Brazilian side of Iguazu Falls. I will add that while the crossing itself was painless, there was a long line up to exit Argentina, but my driver had a fast pass of sorts that allowed us to bypass it. Getting stamped into Brazil almost felt optional, as no one was checking the vehicles; it felt like a voluntary thing to do.

Staying Inside Iguazu National Park – Hotels Compared

Both Hotel das Cataratas and Gran Meliá Iguazú are located directly within their respective national parks, providing easy, quick access to the trails and viewpoints around Iguazu Falls. They are also widely considered the two premier luxury properties in the region, with both hotels receiving equally passionate praise and criticism across online reviews. Rather than provide a traditional full review of each property, I wanted to focus more on how they compare against one another, highlighting the strengths, weaknesses, and overall experience each hotel offers.

Check-In Experience

Hotel das Cataratas offered a more polished, luxurious arrival experience, with welcome drinks, cold towels, sweets, and a noticeably stronger overall presentation. Both properties offered a generous 4 PM late checkout, though the Belmond proactively confirmed it in advance of arrival.

Room Design, Comfort, and Amenities

Both hotels provided welcome amenities and handwritten notes, though the Brazilian sweets at Hotel das Cataratas felt far more memorable than the pastry offered at Gran Meliá. The Belmond rooms embrace a classic Portuguese-colonial design with warm historic character, while the Gran Meliá leans into a more modern and minimalist aesthetic that felt somewhat generic in comparison. That said, the upgraded waterfall-view room at the Gran Meliá delivered truly spectacular views of the falls and surrounding jungle. Wildlife sightings were also a major perk at the Gran Meliá, with monkeys frequently appearing on balconies throughout the property.

Public Areas & Atmosphere

This is where the two hotels feel dramatically different from one another. Hotel das Cataratas feels elegant, historic, and deeply atmospheric, with lush tropical surroundings that make you feel immersed in the jungle. Meanwhile, the Gran Meliá places far greater emphasis on maximizing views of the falls from nearly every corner of the property, including the pool, restaurants, and outdoor terraces. While the pool facilities at the Belmond were stronger, the views throughout the Gran Meliá were undeniably more impressive.

Dining Options

Dining was another area where Hotel das Cataratas clearly stood out. The property offered a more refined and upscale dining experience overall, with better food quality, stronger cocktail offerings, and a significantly more impressive breakfast spread featuring a larger variety of local Brazilian dishes. Gran Meliá’s dining venues benefit heavily from their incredible waterfall views, though the culinary experience itself felt less memorable.

Spa & Gym

The spa experience at Hotel das Cataratas felt considerably more luxurious and polished overall. While the Gran Meliá features a larger gym and hydrotherapy facilities, the spa itself felt more dated and less refined in execution.

Service & Hospitality

Service at both properties was excellent overall, and I would consider this category effectively a tie. Staff at both hotels were warm, professional, and clearly accustomed to international luxury travellers.

Access to the Falls

The greatest advantage of Hotel das Cataratas is the exclusive early morning and evening access to the Brazilian side of Iguazu Falls after the park closes to the general public. Experiencing the falls nearly alone during these hours was genuinely magical and, in my opinion, worth the splurge on its own. While Gran Meliá does not offer the same level of exclusive park access, its location inside Iguazú National Park still allows guests to reach the Argentina-side circuits before most day visitors arrive. During my stay, I was able to walk portions of the Lower Circuit completely alone early in the morning.

Overall Vibe

In my opinion, staying inside the national parks completely transforms the Iguazu experience, making these the only two hotels truly worth considering when visiting the falls. That said, the two properties cater to very different travelers. Hotel das Cataratas feels like a true luxury destination hotel with exceptional atmosphere, dining, and overall polish, whereas the Gran Meliá’s greatest strength is unquestionably its unmatched location and waterfall views. If I were to return, I would happily stay at both again, though I would likely dedicate more time to Hotel das Cataratas next time around.

Brazil vs Argentina: Which Side of the Falls Is Better?

There is endless debate about which side of Iguazu Falls is better, but in my opinion, the Argentine side was unquestionably the highlight of the trip. I was completely mesmerized by both the scale and raw beauty of the waterfalls and surrounding jungle; at times, it genuinely felt like stepping onto another planet. The sheer power of the falls combined with the dense subtropical scenery is nearly impossible to properly capture in words or photos, but here are a few attempts:

What makes the Argentine side so extraordinary is how immersive the experience feels. The extensive network of trails and circuits constantly changes your perspective of the falls, whether you are standing directly above the cascades, walking deep through the jungle, or finding yourself almost on top of the roaring water itself. The undisputed highlight was Devil’s Throat, an experience so overwhelming in both scale and sound that it honestly made Niagara Falls feel surprisingly tame by comparison.

 That said, while I preferred the Argentine side overall, the Brazilian side absolutely should not be skipped. The panoramic viewpoints from Brazil provide a completely different perspective of Iguazu Falls and are arguably the best way to appreciate the immense scale of the waterfall system as a whole.

The Long Journey Home

My journey home would take me from Iguazu (IGR) back to Buenos Aires (AEP), this time on low-cost carrier JetSMART. Booking the flight turned out to be far more frustrating than expected, as the airline repeatedly refused to process foreign credit cards until I ultimately booked it through Capital One Travel using part of my annual $300 travel credit. Despite the overwhelmingly negative reviews online, I actually found the overall experience to be better than Aerolíneas Argentinas.

Once back in Buenos Aires, I had roughly 10 hours before my evening departure and decided to spend the afternoon at the downtown Marriott. This hotel genuinely surprised me by how impressive it was, particularly the club lounge, which offered a level of food and beverage service that honestly reminded me more of a Marriott property in Asia than South America. The rooftop views, pool, and gym facilities were also excellent, and as a Marriott Titanium member, I was upgraded to a large suite. Overall, it ended up being a fantastic place to relax and recharge before the long journey home.

After enjoying one final Argentine steak dinner, I made my way to EZE for my return American Airlines flight to JFK. The American Airlines lounge at EZE, unfortunately, was an overcrowded mess and easily one of the weakest lounge experiences of the trip. Thankfully, the flight itself was far more enjoyable, and I managed to get nearly seven hours of sleep in Flagship First despite the missing mattress topper.

Finally, my Air Canada flights from JFK to Montreal and onward to Ottawa operated on time — something that admittedly feels increasingly rare these days — providing a smooth and comfortable end to what turned out to be one of the most memorable trips I’ve taken in years.

Final Thoughts

Iguazu Falls ended up exceeding every expectation I had built up over the years. Despite all the flights, airport transfers, separate tickets, and moving pieces behind the scenes, the moments I’ll remember most were the quiet early mornings standing near the falls before the crowds arrived, hearing nothing but the roar of the water and the surrounding jungle.

As much as this trip involved premium cabins, luxury hotels, and points strategy, Iguazu itself was the true highlight. Photos simply do not prepare you for the sheer scale and beauty of the falls, particularly from the Argentine side where the experience feels completely immersive.

This trip probably shouldn’t have worked as smoothly as it did. But somehow, it all came together perfectly.